Zebra roller blinds with DC 12V Motor and Qubino Z-Wave / Vera controller hub - Part 4

 Parts one, two and three. 

I will be covering the installation of the blind, the wiring and the calibration of the upper and lower limits of the tubular motor in this part. 

Here is a PDF document with the instructions for the ES2512-1.5/28 motor. In order to calibrate the motor I needed to buy a temporary DPDT momentary rocker switch. I bought this cheap one off eBay. 

Black DPDT On-Off-On Momentary Rocker Switch 15A 250VAC 22x30 6 pins - EAN # 0691046680464.

If you've not sure how to wire up a DPDT switch you can watch this Youtube video here where it is explained. 

The middle two pins on the switch go to the motor. 

Then from your power supply connect the positive and negative (ground) wires to the top two pins. 

Then you loop over a small cable from the top positive power pin to the lower opposite positive power pin.

Then you loop over a small cable from the top negative (ground) power pin to the lower opposite negative (ground) power pin.

You can then test the switch up and down by pressing the buttons on the switch. Next I needed to follow the instructions for the motor to calibrate its upper and lower limits. 

From the user manual:

• Entering into the state of programming： Keep the switch on the “UP” position, and then, keep down the “k1” key on motor head for more than 6 seconds. Motor gives out quick short alarm “Di, Di, Di” means the motor is entering into the state of programming. 

• Setting of upper limit： Keep the switch on “STOP” position, and then keep it on “UP” state, the motor continuously rolling up . When the shade close to the end-point of the upper limit, keep the switch on “STOP” state, motor stops operation. Then press “UP” a time and then press “STOP” a time, the shade will move towards upper position a little, Repeat the above operation again and again until the shade reaches the end-point of the upper limit.

• Setting of lower limit： Keep the switch on “DOWN” position, motor gives out quick short alarm “Di Di,Di”. After 2 seconds, the shade continuously rolling down. When the shade is close to the end-point of the lower limit, keep switch on “STOP” state, At that time, press “DOWN” a time and then press “STOP” a time, the shade will move towards lower position a little. Repeat the above operation again and again until the shade reaches the end-point of the lower limit. 

• Confirm programming： Keep the switch on “UP” state, motor gives out quick short alarm “Di, Di ,Di” means the above limit settings are effective.

Once I was happy the blind was working OK with the DPDT switch, it was time to remove that and wire in the Z-Wave Qubino DC Flush Shutter module in its place.

Here is the wiring diagram from the Qubino user manual. 

I don't plan to wire in a wall switch however, instead I will be utilizing the existing wall switch for my curtain track connected to a Fibaro AC Roller Shutter module. I will just program the double click up and double click down triggers of the Fibaro module to control the Qubino module, this will be programmed in Vera / PLEG logic engine. 

Here is a close up:

Positive / Negative wires from your power supply go to + / - on the Qubino module, I am just using a 12V 2A plugin power supply I had laying around the house from something else. 

Q1 / Q2 go to the motors wires for up / down.

l1 / l2 go to your wall switch if you have one, and also you need another positive wire from the power supply to the common on the wall switch. 

TS connects to the external temperature sensor if you have one.

Once the Qubino module is wired up you can then pair it to your Z-Wave controller hub in my case a Vera Plus. 

The user manual for the Qubino DC Flush Shutter can be seen here. 

Now we need to also calibrate the Qubino module. (Or do we?) 

From the user manual:

13. Flush Shutter DC Calibration

Automatic calibration

Automatic calibration is a process during which the Flush Shutter DC learns the position of the limit switches.

Shutter positioning calibration

(par. 71 set to 0)

There are two options to calibrate the device:

• Calibration through main gateway (hub) UI

1) Include the device into the Z-wave network according to the instructions for inclusion.

2) Set the parameter 78 (Forced Flush Shutter DC calibration) value to 1.

3) Flush Shutter DC performs the calibration process, completing full cycle - up, down and up again.

4) Set the parameter 78 (Forced Flush Shutter DC calibration) value to 0.

• Calibration through the inputs I1 and I2

1) Include the device into the wireless network, according to the instructions for inclusion.

2) Quick press the switch/push-button connected to I1 input and wait until the Shutter DC reaches the upper limit switch.

3) Quick press the switch/push-button connected to I2 input and wait until the Shutter DC reaches the lower limit switch.

4) Quick press the switch/push-button connected to I1 input and wait until the Shutter DC reaches the upper limit switch.

As I don't have a switch connected to the Qubino module, I used the "Calibration through main gateway" option. 

Setting parameter 78 to 1 byte dec with a value of 1. The blind then lowered and raised to do the calibration process, however there was a big problem, the calibration process didn't move the blind to the fully down and fully up limits of the motor. It only moved the blind up and down just a little bit. 

I was unable to figure out why and in the end the trick to get it working, was to unpair the Qubino module from Vera and start over and pair it again. 

However this time I did not set any calibration parameters on the Qubino module. As is, paired to the Vera, I was able to move the blind fully up and down via the Vera controller and it was then working OK. So in my case, in the end I did NOT use any calibration parameters on the Qubino DC Flush Shutter module. 

Here are some photos of the brackets and the Qubino module. 

Fitting the brackets up in to the window reveal was easier than I expected, I didn't hit the concrete lintel and was able just to use regular rawl plugs and long screws and the brackets were secure enough. 

In the final part we will be looking at the blind in operation. 

Part five here.

Zebra roller blinds with DC 12V Motor and Qubino Z-Wave / Vera controller hub - Part 3

 Part 1 can be seen here and Part 2 here.

Zebra Roller Blind unboxing.

I was keen to see which motor was actual in the blinds as I hadn't managed to obtain that information from the seller on Alixpress. I had just specified I needed a standard 12V DC roller tube motor with no inbuilt RF radio. 

So I took the motor out of the roller blind tube to take a look at it. The motor is a Bofu ES2512-1.5/28.

Its a brand I've not heard of before but appears to be the same brand of motors sold on Amazon by "Rollerhouse". 

The motor is smaller in size than I was expecting so hope its going to be powerful enough for my size of blind.

There are no mechanical limit screw holes like there are on my AC Dooya tubular motors. However the top and bottom limits can be set on the motor by pressing the button and following the directions in the supplied instructions, which you can see below. 

I didn't take a photo of it but the inside of the tube has a notch, similar to this image I found on Google.

This is the other end of the motor that slides in to the tube and has to be aligned over the notch in the tube.

Enclosed Instructions:

This is the other end of the tube from the motor.

I pulled out the end to take a look at it.

There are three supplied brackets which clip in to the header rail like this. 

These brackets will have to be screwed up in to the Windows lintel inside the reveal, which I hope isn't going to be a major hassle but might be if its solid concrete and not much gap between it and the plaster work for any fixings.

In Part 4 I will be fitting the blind and taking a closer look at it as I haven't been able to pull out much of the fabric yet with the motor installed and not powered up etc.

Part 4 here. 

Zebra roller blinds with DC 12V Motor and Qubino Z-Wave / Vera controller hub - Part 2

 Part 1 can be seen here.

Installation of the Qubino Flush Shutter DC module.

The whole reason I opted for the Qubino DC module is because I couldn't be bothered chasing out the walls for mains AC cables that would be needed for a Fibaro Roller Shutter module. 

So I just installed a deep surface mount back box in the top corner of the window reveal and ran some low voltage bell cable down to a nearby plug socket area.

The Qubino module will sit inside the back box and a blanking cover plate will hide it.

Optional Temperature Sensor Probe. 

An optional temperature sensor probe can be purchased and connected to the Qubino Flush Shutter DC module. You can purchase these from Vesternet here for £12.56.

However that seemed a bit pricey for what is just a DS18B20 Digital Temp Probe. So I made my own for about £4. 

I already had a spare one in a draw that I previously purchased from Aliexpress here for about £2 shipped. 

I just needed to find a suitable connector to be able to connect it to the Qubino module. 

The correct connector needed is a Micro JST 1.25mm Connector Plug and I found one on eBay for £2.

I then just soldered the two together using this diagram.

JST Connector - Yellow -> Temp Probe - Black (GND)

JST Connector - Black -> Temp Probe - Yellow (DQ)

JST Connector Red -> Temp Probe - Red (VDD)

I then drilled a hole through the wall out from the back of the surface mount back box, so I could have this as an outdoor temperature probe. 

Including the Qubino Flush Shutter DC module in to the Z-Wave Vera controller hub.

The temperature sensor probe should be connected to the Qubino module before you pair the module to your Z-Wave controller hub.

I paired the Qubino module to my VeraPlus Z-Wave controller hub, however I ended up with four devices rather than just the two that I was expecting to see. 

It added a parent device which I named “Lounge Blind” and assigned it to my Lounge Room.

It also added a child device for the Temperature Sensor, which appeared to be working and changing values.

However its also added two additional child devices which I was not expecting.

Its added another child device for “Window Covering”.

If I press the open or close buttons on this “Window Covering” child device, then the parent “Lounge Blind” device is also changed to open or closed.

And another child device which I have no idea what it is.

Seems these two extra devices are phantom or ghost devices, so I just hid them from the Vera UI7 web GUI. by adding two lines of code to the Startup LUA.

Where number 502 and 503 are the device ID numbers of the child devices you want to be hidden.

luup.attr_set("invisible","1",502)

luup.attr_set("invisible","1",503)

In Part 3 we will have a look at the Zebra blind that has arrived from China. 

Part 3 here.

Zebra roller blinds with DC 12V Motor and Qubino Z-Wave / Vera controller hub - Part 1

I've been looking for some blinds for my living room window. I already have motorised Z-Wave black out curtains fitted, however I wanted some light coloured blinds sat behind the curtains so I could let light in but still have some privacy.

Ideally I probably would have gone for wooden Venetian blinds, however there are limited cheaper options in the EU to control the tilt opening and closing on those kinds of blinds, Somfy do them but not so cheap.

The best DIY solution I have seen is the Z-Wave iBlinds Kit which is a Z-Wave enabled motor that sits directly hidden away in the header rail of the Venetian blinds, however these are only currently available for the US market, although I have been told by iBlinds that they are planning to release an EU model at some point.

The other option is them crappy looking chain cord pulley motors that look unreliable. Although I have a friend who rates the Brunt Blind Engine ones.

I then saw blinds called Zebra blinds, which is basically a roller blind, however they have a sheer part to the dual layer fabric, so you can either have them in full privacy or adjust them to allow in some light. Watch this random Youtube video better than me trying to explain what they are.

Roller blinds are much easier to integrate in to a Z-Wave network as there are plenty of roller shutter modules out there you can use. I previously used a 240V mains voltage roller tube motor and a Fibaro Roller Shutter module for the blinds in my kitchen. 

Looking on Aliexpress however, most motorised Zebra blinds for sale were either battery operated motors which I didn't want, or mains voltage motors, I wanted to avoid having to chase mains electric cables in to the walls again as I have just painted all of my lounge room, so I was looking for a low voltage 12V DC motor that could be used with a thin surface mounted cable. 

Most of the motors being sold as a complete Zebra blind kit also came with an RF 433Mhz remote control. I believe you cannot use an RF motor and then attached a Z-Wave roller shutter to it, as the motor is still expecting the signal to come from the RF remote control. My same friend also tried a Qubino Flush Shutter DC module with SmartThings and an RF 433Mhz tube motor he bought from Amazon, however he said it did not work for this reason, 

So I needed a 12V DC standard motor with no remote and no RF 433Mhz as I planned on using a Z-Wave Qubino Flush Shutter DC module. 

So I contacted my usual supplier on Aliexpress Scott from Friend Group their store has been renamed to Runxin Blinds Store however its the same people. 

I gave Scott my requirements and measurements and he said he could supply me a standard 12V DC motor in a 38mm diameter tube. 

To pick a fabric colour I was given this link here. I've picked colour B121 which looks to be a light cream colour I hope ! 

Other colours available:

These were the measurements of my Windows internal recess, which I sent to Scott. For my window size the cost was $135 USD. 

The construction of the Zebra blinds, they also call them Rainbow blinds on the Aliexpress store, they have a metal cassette style header concealing the roller blind itself and a metal bottom bar. 

Here is the proposed wiring diagram for the Qubino Flush Shutter DC module and the blinds 12v DC motor. 

I don't plan to install and connect a physical switch with the Qubino module. I do have an existing switch near to this window connected to a Fibaro Roller Shutter module for my Z-Wave curtain track.

I figured I could just program the Fibaro Roller Shutter module for double clicks up and double clicks down on its wall switch to then control the Zebra blinds / Qubino module. This will save me the hassle of wiring in another switch and cabling in to that wall again.

I've only just ordered my motorised Zebra blind kit, so it will take some time to arrive from China, I have already got the Qubino Flush Shutter DC module here. In part two it will be the unboxing. 

Part 2 here.

Z-Wave roller blinds with Dooya motor, Vera controller and Fibaro shutter module - Part 3

Welcome to part three of my roller blind installation, you can see part one here and part two here.

Today we mounted the roller blind, I still have some touching up to do on the wall and we plan to install a pelmet made of wood, across the top to hide the whole tube / roll. I'll probably paint this pelmet the same colour as the walls.

Here you can see some photos of the ends of the roller blind.

There is no channel in the tube, inside the tube is all smooth to the touch, so the fabric must be stuck on to the tube, rather than the fabric being inserted in to a channel or groove to secure it. 

I recommend you glue the white cap with the pin in to the tube, because when the blind was in operation the white cap wobbled its way out of the tube, as it wasn't a really tight fit. 

As we'd already fitted the blind up and didn't want to take it down again and disturb the fixing screws in the wall, we just used a plastic spacer we made and inserted it against the bracket and the white cap to stop the cap wobbling out of the tube, seems to work well now with no issues. 

Here you can see the motor end of the blind, the two screws are for the mechanical limits. You get a supplied green plastic tool to adjust these. I connected the motor to the mains power and to the wall switch without connecting the Fibaro shutter module first, so I could set the mechanical limits of the motor for upper top position and for lowest down position. 

Test fitting the bracket.

We didn't want to drill up in to the concrete lintel, so instead we mounted the brackets to the sides of the walls inside the window reveal. This meant we had to use plastic blocks behind the bracket to space it out a bit from the wall. 

We also moved the box for the module and cable connectors up, so it will be hidden behind the blind / pelmet. 

Temporary wiring without the Fibaro shutter module to test the motor and setup the mechanical limits on the motor. 

Now wired with the Fibaro shutter module. Hole in the wall where the box was previously located filled in.

Now with the module and cables / connectors pushed back in to the box and the cover screwed on. I used a 47mm deep box and it was only just big enough to fit everything inside of it. The wall still needs fixing with filler and paint. 

Roller blind fitted into the window reveal.

The blind can be operated with the wall switch. Before I fitted the Fibaro module you had to press and then hold the switch up or down whilst the blind went up or down. If you let go the motor stopped. 

After fitting the Fibaro module and running the calibration routine on the module, now you can just press down and release and the blind comes all the way down. Or you can press up and release and the blind goes all the way back to the top. Whilst the blind is moving if you press up or down again the blind will stop in that position. 

We went for a sun screen fabric in grey colour, you can also get full black out fabric from the supplier.

When dark outside the sun screen fabric looks like this. If you want full block you'll need to order the black out fabric. 

In the next part I will do a video of the blind in operation and go over some of the software Vera and Imperihome app.

Part 4 here.